Poland 08 - Killing Me Softly With Their Food

Restaurant in Ciechanow, Poland

One of Przemek's favorite treats was sweet, however. He seemed to have a craving... no, craving isn't the right word... maybe an insatiable, unrivaled longing... yeah, that's it... for the uniquely Polish candy bar Prince Polo. You won't find as many varieties of candy bars in Poland as you do in the U.S. Most of the ones you find are chocolate coated wafers, something akin to Kit-Kats. There are many different companies that make them, but Przemek swears that Prince Polo is the absolute best. "I ate these as a child," he'd say.

The first time we got one was right after we'd eaten at a pizza place together. Przemek wanted one, and he treated all of us to a taste of this Polish tradition. And, it was good! The chocolate coating is more on the dark side of the chocolate spectrum. If you've ever had the chocolate coated gem donuts, then you're pretty close to knowing the exterior of a Prince Polo. He was right. They are very good!

Now I don't know if Przemek is this way all the time or if he used our visit as an excuse to indulge in Prince Polos, but after that first encounter with the royal candy, he always seemed to be on the hunt for another. Like a junkie after the next fix, Prince Polo was on his mind. On one of our travel days, we stopped a shop to get our mid-afternoon Prince Polos. Much to his chagrin, they didn't have any. We then went on a search that got more and more desperate as we visited shop after shop that didn't have them. Finally, sweet relief! A shop had them!

In his defense, they are very good. We brought a box home to give to people we know. Everyone who sampled a Prince Polo quickly understood how it could become addictive.

In our research before we went to Poland, we read over and over that pierogies were a major part of Polish cuisine. Pierogies are not uncommon in the U.S. In fact, frozen pieroigies are available at most grocery stores and in big bags at Sam's.

Pierogies are like stuffed dumplings. Perhaps wontons are a decent comparison, although pierogies are not fried. Ravioli is close as well. They are stuffed with a variety of things. We encountered mostly meat and/or cheese stuffings. They are closed on the side and generally take on a semi-circular shape. Most often they are boiled then baked. The ones we had were usually oniony as well.

They cropped up at more than one meal, and we noticed many restaurants that touted their pierogi prowess. We also saw food trucks with pierogi advertising on the sides. It's serious business in Poland, and it should be. I found out later that the pierogi originated there, and to be Polish is to love pierogies. In fact, there is an annual pierogi festival each year in Krakow. So when you go to Poland, prepare to get your pierogi on!

And as with all the rest of mankind, food is the international symbol for hospitality for the Poles. They may not be outgoing, overtly friendly, or extremely cordial, but you can be assured when you are a welcomed guest in a home, you will be fed and fed well. There were some days we'd visit several different families. Food was always a cornerstone of each visit. It isn't that I didn't appreciate their hospitality, but I don't think each of our culinary benefactors realized how many others were feeding us as well. Eating, at times, seemed to be a job. I think you could kill someone with food. I am quite assured of it.

Poultry liver & onions. Yum!

One culinary highlight for me occurred at a restaurant in Ciechanow. I could not read the menu, so Przemek translated for me. When he got to the poultry liver and onions, I knew he need go no further. Yes, I admit it, I love liver. I like chicken liver, I like beef liver; I just like liver. Big whoop. I was brought a plate of cooked liver and onions and fries, and boy, were they good! I don't think they were chicken livers because of their size. Przemek guessed they were goose or turkey. The dish is probably not uniquely Polish or a national favorite, I suppose. When Przemek ordered for me, the waitress made a slight face of disgust and asked him a question that I only presume was, "Is he sure? Does he know what that is?"

Finally, I want to conclude with a comment not on the food but on how the Polish people eat. EVERYONE I had the opportunity to eat a meal with held a fork in the left hand and a knife in the right (unless they were eating soup, of course). These utensils stayed in place at almost all times, and they used them like their bodies were machines and the knife and fork were the business end of said machines. The only way I can describe how they eat is efficient. Nearly every Pole would finish a meal before any of us Americans. Each movement was precise, unwasted, and with purpose. It was something to watch. And because they all eat the same way, they must be formally taught as children. I know no other explanation. I tried to learn the skill but failed. It is probably something best learned in private.

Oh, one more thing. The Poles love their pizza places. In Ciechanow, there were not a great number of restaurants. There were certainly no American chain joints. But there were pizza places everywhere. I was jokingly told that Poland had more pizza places than Italy. They like 'em large too. Take a look at the pics. One restaurant boasted a 57cm pizza. The American equivalent is ginormous. Wow.